Surfing wipeout

I began surfing about six years ago.  Almost every year since then has involved a trip to Nicaragua with my dad and brother.  As we progressed in surfing we moved further up the coast of Nicaragua; the further North you go the less people there are, but the quality of the waves increase.  About two years ago we were staying at a prime surf spot in Nicaragua.  We were also staying there at the prime time, a huge swell was moving in and the waves were getting big.  The waves were so big one afternoon that the normal crowd of about 30 or 40 had gone in and the only people in the water were two older surfers on semi-guns(longer boards used to surf bigger waves).  I was on the fence about going in as I was hungry and tired, but a seemingly perfect wave rolled through so I got out there.  The paddle out was surprisingly easy as I completely avoided most of the waves.  As I sat in the lineup I realized why nobody was surfing.  The waves were significantly bigger and gnarlier than they appeared, there was also so much water moving around it was impossible to sit in one spot for more than five seconds.  By the time I realized this I was already about 50 yards out to sea.  I paddled against the rip current to get back into the lineup and was motivated by the excitement of an outside set(bigger set of waves that breaks farther out then normal).  I was able to get into the first wave, but there was so much water moving out to sea and so much wind that I got held up at the top and had no other choice but to airdrop down to the bottom.  This wave was definitely the heaviest wave that I've been on, it was about two to two and a half times the height of this classroom and had a barrel(hollow portion of a wave) big enough to hide a truck.  I was in the lip of the wave when I realized I had only one choice.  When I hit the bottom my knees buckled and I made a last ditch effort to dive to a safer place, there was none.  I got ragdolled around in complete darkness for about 40 seconds, holding your breath during a wipeout is much harder than holding your breath while calm, this 40 seconds would be about 2 and half minutes if calm.  The chaos finally stopped so I began to swim to where I thought the surface was.  I was just about out of breath when I finally reached the surface where I was met with a wave breaking on my head, three more seconds and I would've been dead.  Anyway, I made it safely to shore and promptly called it quits for the day.